San Sebastián: A Journey into Spain’s Culinary Heart

San Sebastián, or Donostia in Basque, sits along the northern coast of Spain, just 30 minutes from the French border. With sweeping views of the Bay of Biscay, charming old town streets, and a deep-rooted food culture, it has quietly become one of the world’s most respected culinary destinations. For decades, this small seaside city has drawn top chefs and passionate eaters alike—earning more Michelin stars per capita than nearly anywhere else on earth. But beyond the accolades, it’s a place where food is simply part of the rhythm of everyday life.

Two Ways to Stay

We began our trip perched above the coastline at Hotel Akelarre, which blends into the cliffs just outside the city. The hotel is striking in its simplicity and calm—designed around the natural light and endless views. It's also home to one of Spain’s legendary restaurants: Akelarre, led by Chef Pedro Subijana. Dinner here was a standout, not just for the precision and creativity of the menu, but for the behind-the-scenes look we got. A private tour of the kitchen mid-service and a chance to speak with the chef himself made the evening even more memorable.

Later, we moved to Villa Favorita, a small luxury hotel tucked along La Concha Bay. It couldn’t have been more different—steps from the beach and the bustle of town, with rooms that open to the sea and interiors that feel fresh and design-forward. Both properties offered something special, and I made sure to visit the San Seb's other top hotels to ensure I’m matching my clients with the right experience.

Wine Worth the Trip

Though I didn’t make it to Rioja this time—a two-hour drive from San Sebastián—it’s absolutely doable for future travelers. I did, however, spend an afternoon in the nearby Txakoli (pronounced chah-ko-lee) region. This Basque white wine is known for its crisp acidity, slight effervescence, and low alcohol content, making it perfect with seafood or for sipping on a warm afternoon. Many of the vineyards are small, family-run, and sit just a few miles outside the city, offering a slower-paced contrast to San Sebastián's buzz.

The Star: The Food

San Sebastián’s reputation as a culinary capital is well-earned. And while Michelin-starred restaurants are part of the draw (our meal at Muka was another highlight), the city’s food culture is far more accessible than its fine dining reputation might suggest.

We spent one afternoon on a pintxos tour—a form of bar-hopping through the old town where you sample small bites at each stop. Pintxos (the Basque version of tapas) are often served on a slice of bread and secured with a toothpick, but the variations are endless. We tried everything from grilled prawns and jamón croquettes to stews served in tiny clay bowls. The joy here isn’t in one dish but in the casual rhythm of moving through the city, discovering new spots, and ordering what the locals recommend. Catch a glimpse of what we ate and drink here, there are just too many photos to put into this blog!

Already Planning My Return

Even before we left, I found myself thinking about the next trip. There’s more to eat, more to sip, and more to explore—both in the city and the surrounding Basque countryside. San Sebastián is a place where food is the reason to go, but not the only reason to return.