Kenya, Done Right

Kenya is a place to travel that will change your expectations. Yes, the safari is as incredible as you imagine, but there is so much more to experience. The country is a blend of African, Indian, and European influences that shows up everywhere, from the food to the fashion to the way people host and welcome you.

The contrast is what makes the trip. One moment you're in a city that feels energetic and stylish. Next, you're in a remote landscape where you can go hours without seeing another vehicle. And then, just as easily, you're on a stretch of coastline with soft white sand and warm, turquoise water that feels completely removed from the bush.

This was my first visit. Within a day, I was already thinking about when I could return with family.

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Nairobi: where the trip really begins

Nairobi is often treated as a quick overnight stay to get you to your safari. It should not be!

Nairobi is where you start to understand Kenya beyond safari. The city has a real point of view. There is a growing food scene, beautifully designed hotels, artisans worth visiting, and of course a deep history.

One of the most meaningful experiences here is visiting the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. You stand just feet away as baby elephants (and zebras and rhinos) run in, each with their own personality, their own story, many of them orphaned at just a few months old. You watch them being fed, see how they interact with their keepers, and start to understand the level of care and commitment that goes into raising them with the goal of eventually returning them to the wild. It is equal parts joyful and emotional, and it stays with you long after you leave.

I highly recommend arranging a private viewing. It is a completely different experience, quieter, intimate, and it gives you a first-hand look into the work being done to protect the animals and reintroduce them into the wild. It does need to be planned well in advance and requires coordination to weave seamlessly into your itinerary, which is something I handle closely when designing a trip.

Another side of Nairobi to experience is its creative scene. I attended Tribal Chic, held annually at Tribe Hotel where I stayed, and it completely reframed how I saw Kenya. Tribe is one of the city’s most design-forward hotels and naturally attracts a stylish, international crowd. Tribal Chic brings together East African designers in a runway show to expose locals and foreigners to Nairobi’s growing fashion scene. It is not something most travelers would think to include, but it is exactly the kind of experience that adds context to your trip and gives you a more complete sense of the destination.

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Laikipia: raw, remote, and deeply personal

From Nairobi, we flew just over an hour north to Laikipia, where you immediately feel a shift. The landscape opens up, the air feels different, and the pace slows.

Laikipia offers a completely different kind of safari than the Maasai Mara. It is more rugged, more remote, and far less trafficked. A big part of that comes down to the conservancy model. Staying on a private conservancy means the land is carefully managed for both conservation and local communities, with a limited number of guests at any given time. You feel it every day - few vehicles, more flexibility, and a much more personal experience. You're not waiting your turn at sightings or surrounded by other cars. You have space, and with that, a very different connection to what you are seeing.

We stayed at Ol Malo, a family-run lodge built into the escarpment. It overlooks an expansive valley that seems to stretch endlessly, with light that shifts throughout the day in a way that makes you slow down and take it in.

What makes Laikipia, and Ol Malo in particular, so memorable is the rhythm of the days. Mornings start quietly with coffee as the sun rises over the plateau. Walking safaris with the local Samburu tribe who know the land intimately, sharing not just wildlife sightings but stories of the terrain, the communities, and the ecosystem. Camel rides that end with breakfast set up in the middle of nowhere, where you look around and realize there is nothing but open space in every direction. Long game drives that feel exploratory rather than scheduled.

And then the helicopter experience, one of the most memorable afternoons of my life! Flying low over the landscape, you start to understand just how vast and untouched this part of Kenya is. No roads, no boundaries, just terrain unfolding beneath you. A game drive from the air is truly a one-of-kind experience. We landed on a mountaintop for a sundowner, and it was one of those rare travel moments where I thought “I will never be able to top this.” It's not just about the view, it's the feeling of being somewhere truly remote and getting to experience it with just the people you are with.

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Maasai Mara: iconic, but how you do it matters

The Maasai Mara is what most people picture when they think of safari. And it delivers. But where you stay and how you experience makes all the difference.

I split my time across three lodges, and each offered something completely different.

Ishara Mara was, without question, the standout. It is set along the Talek River, in a location that gives you quick access to multiple parts of the reserve. With two entry points, you are able to move efficiently based on where wildlife is, which means more time at sightings and less time driving.

But what truly defines Ishara is the team. There is a warmth and consistency to the service that is hard to replicate. It feels like a family, and guests are very much part of that from the moment they arrive.

The camp itself is incredibly well thought out. Between game drives, you have a beautiful pool and spa, hot and cold plunges, a sauna, and an elevated observation deck that becomes the perfect setting for sunset drinks or a private dinner under the stars. One of the most unique touches is the Canon photography studio, where professionals can join your drives or capture moments you would otherwise miss.

Paradise Plains felt completely different. It's brand new and leans more into design. Wallpaper, layered textures, statement lighting, and soaking tubs overlook the landscape. It's a great option for clients who want a safari experience that still feels very design-forward.

Hemingways Ol Seki offers a more classic, understated luxury safari feel. Situated on a hill, the lodge is well positioned for animal sightings from the patio of your room or the main restaurant. At night we could hear lions roaring and roaming outside and under the safety of our resident guides spotted a female leopard on the hunt.

There are so many other lodges in the Mara that it can be very hard to choose. Your friends and family members who have been may have many good things to say about their experience and lodging. Just keep in mind there is a LOT to consider with safaris, I'm here to help you find the right fit!

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Diani Beach: the reset you need

After seven days of early mornings and full days on safari, Diani was the ending I needed to this trip. And this is exactly what I would recommend my clients ending a safari trip - a few days of pure relaxation before the long journey home.

We flew to the coast and settled into a privately owned villa run by a second-generation Italian Kenyan family. Days in Diani unfold without much structure. You wake up and decide as you go. Mornings by the pool, long walks along the beach, maybe a swim in the warm, Indian ocean, and then back for a late lunch that turns into an unhurried afternoon. Bonus: massages are included in your stay at this villa.

The food was the best we’d had on our nearly 2 week trip. The family has trained the Kenyan chefs on their family recipes, picking up fresh seafood each morning and presenting guests a vast selection of meal options. All you have to do is show up to the table, select your beverage of choice, and watch the waves crash in front of you as your food is brought out.

And that contrast is exactly why it works so well. After moving through Nairobi, Laikipia, and the Mara, Diani gives you space to pause and take it all in before heading home.

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Move to the top of your list

Kenya works because it is not just one thing. And because of this, the details matter. Where you stay, how you move between places, who your guides are can make or break the trip. Done right, it becomes something far more personal than a typical safari itinerary. And it is one of the easiest places for me to confidently say, this is a trip I want you to take.